The Snežnik
mountain chain – the Reka River valley – Brkini
– Vremščica, Košana valley, Prestranško-slavinski
ravnik and Sajevško polje – Škocjan Caves Park
area
The area of
influence of the Škocjan Caves Regional Park
ecompasses the entire Reka River watershed and
covers 450 square kilometres. It is situated
at the extensive junction of the karst and non-karst
worlds at the southwestern foot of a high barrier
of Dinaric plateaus. Its favourable location
is influenced by the Mediterranean climate, and
its surface is heavily broken. Reigning above
it is the 1,796-metre high Mount Snežnik, the
area’s easternmost border and the highest non-alpine
mountain in Slovenia.
Geographical overview
The upper part of the Reka River valley on the
Slovenian–Croatian border, between Mount Snežnik
and Gorski Kotar, is less than 20 kilometres
from the Kvarner Gulf. A surface river network
has developed on the large part of the area of
influence, while the remaining part is characterized
by a distinct underground flowing with major
Karst springs at the junction with impermeable
land. The most abundant are Sušec and Bistrica
in Ilirska Bistrica and Podstenjšek beneath the
village of Šembije, which boasts many stone barriers.
A watershed (between the Black Sea and the Adriatic
Sea) runs across the Snežnik plateau.
Snežnik mountain chain in
the winter.
Flora and fauna
Mount Snežnik is known for its interesting flora
that is extremely diverse from both phytogeographic
and ecological points of view. It is known
for its many plants, both rare and common,
as well as ecologically and floristically highly
diverse plant associations. Not long ago the
area above Ilirska Bistrica was covered with
many meadows that were created following the
deforestation of flowering ash, European hop
hornbeam and downy oak habitats. Nowadays,
these are overgrown due to the progressive
cessation of pastoral stockfarming and mowing.
Above them, vast fir-beech forests extend,
while pine trees prevail in numerous depressions
where temperature inversions occur. The Snežnik
mountain chain is also known for its diverse
fauna. Hardly accessible and still rather intact
forests offer shelter to many animal species,
among others to three greatest predators, the
bear, wolf and lynx.
Cultural heritage
Traces of settlement from the Iron Age have
been found in the Ilirska Bistrica area of
the Park's area of the influence. The terraced
hill fort above Trnovo is one of the largest
settlement complexes in the area. On the
strategically-located Gradina elevation,
a protected settlement in the Late Roman
Age in the form of a stronghold is evident.
A castle was built within its walls in the
Middle Ages, one in the series of castles
along the Reka River. The old Bistrica
town centre dates back to the 14th century. Also
from the Middle Ages is the multiply renovated
Church of St. Peter. A characteristic feature
of this town is the mixture of folk buildings
from the 19th century and buildings that
are commercial and administrative in nature.
The mills and sawmills in its historical
centre date back to the period between the
17th and 20th centuries. There are records
of them from the first half of the 15th century.
Sawmill craft trade was very important for
the town. Today the mills and sawmills in
the town centre are abandoned. Bistrica,
which is also known as the cradle of quality
music groups that cultivate folk songs (Volk
Folk, Bistrške Škuorke etc.), for its convent
and school of Sisters of Notre Dame (1888–)
who continue the tradition of educating young
girls, as the birthplace of the apiarist
Anton Žnidaršič, the constructor of the AŽ
Beehive and as a carnival venue and the town
in which one of the oldest still operating
youth clubs in Slovenia (MKNŽ) is located.
It is also the resting place of 284 deceased
fighters of the 4th Yugoslav Army, the Overseas
Brigades and local inhabitants who found
their rest place on the Freedom Hill (hrib
Svobode). Initiatives to preserve the traditions
surrounding the start of military service, "štel'nga",
as a tourist event originate in the Bistrica
area. The recruitment dates back to the Austro-Hungarian
Empire when universal military conscription
was introduced, and is a festive ritual,
similar to the departure for military service.
Recruits from Pivka, Bistrica, Brkini and
Karst villages drove to the military headquarters
accompanied by the sound of the accordian,
a glass of wine or two, later on in the company
of girls. First, they drove in horse-drawn
carriages decorated with greenery and (paper)
flowers but later the carriages were tractor-drawn.
They received special attention. Local girls
and women adorned them with bunches of paper
flowers, and this custom was preserved just
until recently in the wider area of influence
of the Škocjan Caves Park, usually together
with the custom of decorating carriages with
paper flowers.
Reka River Valley
Flora and fauna
This is an ornithologically important area where,
on the humid and flooding meadows, smaller
swamps, reeds and the Reka River banks, many
animals found their habitat, including the
corncrake (Crex crex), a globally endangered
species, little bittern (Ixobrychus minutus),
common quail (Coturnix coturnix), kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
and other rare bird species. Flooding and marshy
meadows are of significant importance especially
in the sub-Mediterranean part of Slovenia since
they represent a valuable and rare habitat
of endangered plant and animal species, among
them the scarce large blue (Maculinea teleius),
a globally endangered butterfly species. Thermophilic
slopes and occasional steep walls created as
a result of the thrust of Snežnik's calcareous
mass on the flysch Reka River valley are interesting
from both the floral and faunal points of view.
Cultural heritage
The oldest traces of the settlement of this
valley date back to the Late Bronze Age;
they are protected due to their cultural
monument status. These include two prehistoric
hill forts that continued to exist in the
Roman period. The first one, within which
a burial ground was discovered, is located
near Dolnji Zemon, while the other is near
Dolnje Vreme (Soline), where the remains
of an antique settlement (Sv. Jurij) and
the related flat burial ground (Cerje) were
discovered. Even older is the Iron Age stone
mound near Zavrhek (Ajdovski gradec) – according
to the latest research (Štanjel - Ostri Vrh)
it is supposed that it covers the ruins of
a prehistoric defense tower.
The remains of the medieval castle Gotnik pri
Zabičah date back to the mid-13th century.
The name of this mysterious castle perhaps
brings to mind Gothic settlers. At Podstenj,
we can admire the 17th-century Church of Sv.
Anton Padovanski that is known for its exquisite
stonecutting details and the Aquileian bell
tower and is protected as a cultural monument.
This is one of the rare parish churches that
has almost entirely preserved its original
appearance and the most beautiful ridged arched
interior in the Karst area. The Carnival
celebrations have their origins in the pre-Christian period
and are connected with the ancestor cult, celebration
of winter farewell and the arrival of spring
as well as fertility magic rituals. In present
times, the carnival is, above all, fun. Different
kinds of masquerade figures and Carnival groups
have developed in the Slovenian countryside.
Prem Castle
The already-mentioned activities of flourmills
and sawmills that were connected to water capacity
of the Reka River and its tributaries left their
mark on the Reka River valley history. For this
purpose and mostly due to the gentle gradient
of the Reka, the millers constructed many dams
and millraces ("mlinščice"). Their
millstones came from Istria. Many preserved buildings
that testify to this activity located along the
Reka River, from the Jernak Mill beneath the
village of Podgraje to the mill in Ukne just
before the Reka River sink into the Škocjan Caves,
are protected as cultural monuments; for instance,
the Dujčev Mill in the Škofelje area where the
Reka River passes onto the limestone bedrock
and begins to sink into the underground. That
is why the millers had to plug the holes in the
riverbed with wooden beams and rocks. The millers
were often plagued by high water that damaged
mill wheels and machinery, flooded mills, and
demolished dams. Because of such floods and the
then pursued policy, there are no longer any
functioning mills along the river, although two
have been renovated for tourist purposes, i.e.
the Novak Mill beneath the village of Smrje and
the Hodnik Mill in Ilirska Bistrica.
Brkini
Geographical description
On the other side of the Reka River rises the flysch
Brkini region. Numerous hills rise in this
twenty-five kilometre long, seven-kilometre
wide area, in some places reaching over eight
hundred metres above sea level. This flysch
terrain, which resembles a lonely island in
the midst of the Karst landscape, is at several
points split by deep ravines or wider valleys
through which torrential waters flow following
heavy rains; they sink in blind valleys under
the Matarsko podolje on the southern side of
Brkini while on the north they flow into the
Reka River. On one of these streams, two water-storage
reservoirs were created with dams – Klivnik
and Mola – that serve the purpose of enriching
the low waters of the Reka River.
A picturesque ridge road that runs on the top of
Brkini connects many remote and clustered settlements
of this economically and demographically endangered
part of Slovenia.
Flora and fauna
Moderately acidophilic beech forests prevail here,
and the intermittent grassy areas are mainly overgrown
with upright brome grasses and Chrysopogon gryllus.
Due to favourable climatic and pedological conditions,
fruit grows extremely well here, particularly apples
and plums; the famous Brkini plum brandy is produced
from the latter.
Cultural heritage
One of the oldest protected archaeological
areas in Brkini is the hill fort with
a well-preserved rampart dating back to the
Late Bronze Age
near
Jelšane (Sv. Katarina) that was settled by
the Middle Ages. A putative prehistoric hill
fort with
unreliable traces of a medieval fortification
that is badly preserved due to the flysch
ground is
located near Kozjane (Castle).
The medieval
castle on Prem, reigning over a large part
of the central Reka River flow,
stands out
with its strategically favourable position
in Brkini. Today the castle houses a permanent
exhibition
of prehistoric hill forts. Another medieval
castle in this area is situated in Podgrad
pri Vremah.
Završnik Castle dates back to the turn of
the 11th and12th centuries. From 1398, the castle
held the
central office of the Gorica Authority and
the judicial centre for the Karst and Istria,
from
Sežana to Buzet and Klana.
The village of Suhorje
In addition to Suhorje, Prem is also protected
as a settlement monument. The village, located
on the saddle-shaped ridge, is squeezed into
two lines between the castle and the 19th century
Parish Church of Sv. Helena holding paintings
by Tone Kralj in 1921. Buildings in this village
date back to the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries.
One of them is the former People's School and
the birthplace of Dragotin Kette, a Slovenian
poet active in the Slovenian literary movement
known as "Moderna", that today houses
Kette's memorial room (museum).
The Brkini region
saw some heavy fighting during World War II.
The formation of the 1st Battalian
of the Istrian Detachment of the People's Liberation
Army on Ostrovica deserves to be mentioned
here.
The inhabitants of the Brkini region are known
as people who love their traditions. Several
choir and folklore groups are active here.
Active within the framework of the Brkini Cultural
Society
are a dance group that revives old dances from
the Brkini and Inner Carniola (Notranjska)
regions and preserves the Brkini folk dress
as well as
the music group called Brkinska banda and many
others. Let us mention also a typical Carnival
masquerade – škoromati (scoromati) with typical
characters.
Vremščica, Košana
valley, Prestranško-slavinski ravnik and Sajevško
polje
Geographical overview
The north-western part of the area consists of
the undulating and scarsely inhabited Karst world
that reaches its highest point on the 1,027-metre
Vremščica. To the east and northeast part of
Vremščica, it descends into the Košana valley,
the wooded Prestranško-slavinski ravnik and Sajevško
polje, from which percolated waters flow underground
towards the Reka River bed.
Cultural heritage
The oldest protected human traces in this area
have been discovered in the cave site near
Sajevče (Županov spodmol). They date back
to the Middle
and Upper Paleolithic, Iron Age, Roman Age
and the Middle Ages. There are a number of
hill fort
areas and sites from the Late Bronze Age and
Iron Age (near Čepno: Štirna; Gornji Košani:
Gradišče;
Mali Pristavi: Boljunc).
Church of the Visitation of St. Mary's in Gornja
Košana (1666) is a true jewel. This
is one of the most beautiful monuments of Late-Renaissance
Karst
architecture with a dominant role in the settlement
that had the role of one of the oldest parish
centres in the Trieste Diocese.
When talking
about the cultural heritage of
this place, we must mention a group of young
local inhabitants
who founded the Štirna Tourist Society, arranged
the stonecutting educational trail that leads
visitors through the village in time and
strive to achieve
the goal of local cultural heritage renovation.
As they themselves say, the pond (kal) is
known for its stonecutting craft trade in which
several
families were engaged in the 19th century.
They are very proud of the exceptional reservoir,
from
the second half of the 19th century, built
from carved stone that measures 17 metres
in upper diameter
and 9 metres in depth and into which leads
a stone staircase, presently under renovation.
The inhabitants
of the village of Narin have called themselves
a tourist village.
For many centuries, people
here engaged in sheep farming, fruit cultivation,
beekeeping
and farming.
Occasionally, they organize presentations
of some rural customs, serve homemade products
and organize
guided tours along the nature science educational
trail and over-night accommodation.
Škocjan Caves
Park outskirts
Cultural heritage
The oldest protected traces of life in the Copper
Age have been found on the outskirts of the Park.
The most important site is the Jazbina
Cave near
Kačiče with finds dating back further to the
Bronze Age. There are many protected areas from
the Late Bronze Age where settlement continued
into the Iron Age. Especially significant are
the hill forts near Kačiče (Gabrova stran) and
Famlje (Stari grad); finds discovered near Gradišče
continue into the Middle Ages. The hill fort
near Dane pri Divači (Volarija hill fort) dates
back to the Iron Age, while the flat cremation
burial site near Brežec (Dol) is from the Early
Iron Age. Here, 322 graves have been explored
and the finds discovered in the graves are presented
in the archaeological collection of the Škocjan
Caves Park. Human habitation has been constant
throughout the millennia. Near Škoflje, it is
possible to admire the protected remains of the
medieval stronghold (Tabor).
In Vremski Britof near Gornje
Vreme, the birthplace of the storyteller, writer
of books for older children,
publicist and psychiatrist Bogomir Magajna, there
rises a magnificent Baroque-renovated Gothic Parish
Church of St. Mary's Assumption by the Reka River.
The church presbytery contains several frescoes
from the second part of the 15th century and the
church holds some quality paintings by the Gorizia-based
18th century painter Antonio Paroli.
The frescoes
in the Church of Sv. Helena in Gradišče cover
the nave walls. The themes painted in this15th-century
Gothic-Renaissance church are the arrival of
the
Three Wise Men and the Passion cycle. The paintings
are very similar to those of Hrastovlje and
the works coming from workshop of the master
Janez
from Kastav. They represent the peak of creativity
of a local Istrian group. The presbytery of
the Gothic Church of Sv. Tomaž in Famlje is decorated
with paintings in the style of the Northern
Italian
(Friulian) painting tradition of the early
Quattrocento. The small Church of Sv.
Brikcij in Naklo, an example
of Karst Gothic architecture, contains quality
wall paintings painted by the mid-15th century
Friulian painting workshop.
Frescoes in the Church of
Sv. Helena in Gradišče
With regard to folk building, only the former
carriage drivers' inn in Vremski Britof with
outstanding stonecutting details has been protected
as a monument in this area. In addition to this
wealthy homestead bearing No 9, there is another
important one (No 14) in Naklo that has been
declared a cultural monument of local importance.
This one-storey two-room house with an inscription
plate bearing the year 1772 is covered with slate
tiles and has an outdoor stone staircase with
balusters. A well dating back to 1791 is situated
in front of the house on a slightly elevated
and walled-in surface. This was a wealthy house,
which was also the Naklo Municipal centre in
the 19th century. Equally special is the ice
pit near the house Kačiče No 27 which was built
around 1860 and is almost entirely dug into a
Karst sinkhole. Known as the ice factory, it
is the largest ice pit in the area. It is 19
metres deep, cylinder-shaped with a diameter
of 17 metres and with a central 32-metre high
column that served as support for the cone-shaped
roof. The roof was first thatched with straw
and later covered with red tiles ("korci").
A wooden staircase led inside. In the courtyard
of his house, the owner Mušič from Trieste kept
a large pair of scales for wagons containing
ice that he also bought from private farmers.
After his death in 1906, the ice pit ceased to
operate and started to gradually deteriorate.
We could say that this coincides with the appearance
of first cold-storage plants at the end of the
19th century.
One of the economic activities carried out in
this area was also mining. This area is known
for its black coal deposits. In the 19th century,
a black coal mine called Timav was opened in
the vicinity of Vremski Britof. The unit in Zavrhek
was closed in 1955 and the one in Vremski Britof
in 1964.
Prepared
by:
Darja Kranjc, Borut Peric
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